I think there are somewhere over 2000 people on my email list now. While I hate to send too much business to one restaurant, I have to implore ALL of you to call Alba Osteria and make your dinner reservations. Foolishly, I hadn't been out to Alba for over a year. Last night I corrected that gross oversight, and had a fabulous meal. Read more, with pics, on the blog. This was awesome dining, accomapanied by an excellent, and well-priced wine list. Major props to owner/chef/Piedmontese-fetishist Kurt Spack who rocked our palates. MAKE THE CALL!

Alba Osteria, 6440 SW Capitol Hwy.,503.977.3045.


Okay, a quick hit on this because I'm running behind, but you can read a complete rundown with a couple of pics on my blog. I had a fabulous dinner at Autentica last night. Along with Nuestra Cocina (see below) on Division, these guys are dishing the real deal in regional Mexican cooking. I had a truly amazing dining experience and you have to get after it!

Autentica, 5507 NE 30th, 503.287.7555.


Finally, after far too much delay, went to Roux with my friends Jeff and Kathryn recently. I'm happy to report my anticipation was rewarded with much satisfaction. Really a charming, comfortable dining room. I had a drink at the bar while waiting for J'n'K, and I heartily recommend indulging in their house French 75, their take on the classic cocktail. So good! We had fresh oysters, shrimp bisque and crab two ways (crab cake and fried soft shell crab) for starters, and loved them. Then when they had us all wound up and ready for more, three great entrees appeared at the perfect time. I had their take on cassoulet, a Cajun concoction with a crispy duck confit leg and thigh on top of a bed of rice and white beans with sausage and the perfect seasonings. We also tried the stuffed rabbit loin with glazed carrots (how cute)....rich, delicious, very yummy. Also had their fish selection and I really liked it, but the details are escaping me, so instead of misrepresenting the dish, just let me say it also worked really, really well. And where so many restaurants seem to jam one course on your table after the other, one thing the three of us appreciated was the pacing of the meal...unhurried but not slow, leaving plenty of time for between-course conversation. There are some nice buys to be had on the wine list too. Easily the best southern-style cooking in the city, and a very satisfying experience. I'd go back in a heartbeat!

Roux, 1700 N Killingsworth St., 503.285.1200.


In the words...or text messages...of 15-year-old girls across the land, OMG! I have to say that last night I had one of the best food experiences of my life, and if I do ever go all Brokeback Mountain, it'll be because chef/wunderkind Scott Dolich of Park Kitchen is sharing my tent! Had a boy's night out last night, and my brother-in-food Randy Montgomery, he of Provvista Foods and Vino cheese night fame, hooked us up with reservations at Park Kitchen, luckily on the night Scott was rolling out his new spring menu. Through the haze of the most satisfying food hangover I've ever had, I find myself asking, "Did that really happen?" All seven of us shared small plates, and some big plates, of what I seem to recall was almost every freaking delicious thing on their menu. All morning these vague, happy memories have been floating through my consciousness. I seem to recall an unbelievably sensual duck liver terrine that Jeff and I were swooning over...silky smooth, sexy, not gamy at all, incredible; pork belly floating in this crazy good mole; gin-cured mussels in a perfect broth; lamb tartare that blew my palate away; a rabbit surrounded by a palate-slapping peanut romesco that was to die for; black cod swimming in a ridiculously good, smoky fume; salt cod fritters...so good!; duck with root beer spices and cornbread pudding that I would push my mother under a bus for (okay, not really, mom, but it was really, really good!). As plate after plate kept appearing, Randy and I looked at each other and all we could do was laugh. I think we had five different desserts, including this fabulous coconut panna cotta that came jiggling to the table looking like it had been put together by Japanese designer Takashi Murakami. There was more...so much more. It was an amazing experience. We put ourselves in the hands of the kitchen and they were rocking...the service was perfect...I could go on and on. You have to get in there...this was eating on a level I've rarely experienced. Wow!

Park Kitchen, 422 NW 8th Ave., 503.223.7275.


This just in from Dave and Kathy, the owners of Three Doors Down (see review, below) which is, without question, one of the best restaurants in Portland. Starting this Sunday they are going to be open seven days a week, which is very welcome news to us 3DD fanatics who can't get enough of Dave's amazing comfort food. I was there a couple of days ago and had yet another killer meal. If it's on the appetizer menu, you HAVE to try the fresh mozzarella between two slices of egg-washed bread that is sauteed and served in a lemon-butter-thyme sauce. Is it the best grilled cheese sandwich ever or is it some crazy good french toast treat? I don't know, but it was SO freaking good...yikes! Anyway, the Sunday supper runs from 4 to 9pm, with regular hours the other six days.

Three Doors Down, 1429 SE 37th, 503.236.6886.


I've got to say, I had an extremely satisfying quick trip to Seattle. The weather was cold but dry, the Inn at the Market was perfectly situated (may I recommend room 417), and the best part was that in the space of less than 24 hours, we managed to taste our way through six different restaurants, five of which I can easily suggest that you should check out. We started out this food fest with lunch at Cafe Campagna, located smack in the middle of Pike Place Market next to, conveniently enough, the aforementioned Inn at the Market. As always, this little French bistro satisfied. Terrific omelettes, salads and sandwiches with a great list of by-the-glass pours. After a bit of wandering and a martini in the room...god bless the travel bar!...we went to two places for drinks/apps that were suggested by our waitress at Campagna. First we stopped at a cozy little French creperie/cafe named 611 Supreme Delicious cocktails, a nice time with our bartender Kevin the Scotsman, and a steal of a snack for two, the wild mushroom-filled crepe at $8.95. Next on our list, and just a couple of blocks away from 611, is Tango. This tapas bar/Spanish restaurant had a killer happy hour menu, and I'll be craving the incredible queso fundido we had....definitely deserves my highest food rating of "f**cking awesome." Then it was back to the room for a quick change and a short one-block stroll to dinner at Le Pichet. This place is a must stop, a cute, cozily warm, very French bistro that has creative, delicious food that across the board was sooooooooo good and everything that clean, fresh, well-prepared French food should be. Plus we're sitting there and who should walk in but Mark and Debbie from Gino's here in the hood with their pals Kathy Whims (ex-Genoa genius) and David West (Produce Row). They told us that they always hang at Pichet every time they visit Seattle...plus for us local food hounds, look for a new pizza joint from Debbie and Kathy over on SE Morrison in a few months...I can't wait! Next day, thanks to a hot tip from new friends David and Greg Smith, who own David Smith Furniture (and available locally at Urbino on NW 23rd and Irving) we checked out Rain on our way out of town. This is a super-cool little Japanese joint serving ridiculously good, fresh Asian delights. I'd go back in a heartbeat to really get into the menu, because what we had was fantastic. We caught them during their 3 to 6pm happy hour and everything was not only cheap but stupidly good. Don't miss the kubocha squash dumplings with mushrooms and sweet soy sauce if they have 'em. Fantastic!

Cafe Campagna, 86 Pine St., Seattle, Phone 206.728.2233; 611 Supreme, 611 E. Pine, Seattle, 206.328.0292; Tango, 1100 Pike St., Seattle, 206.583.0382; Le Pichet, 1933 1st Ave., Seattle, 206.267.2631; Rain, 2208 NW 45th, Seattle, 206.545.7848.


All I can say is if you haven't made the trek to NE 22nd and Alberta to check out the killer comestibles coming out of the kitchen at Ciao Vito, get your appetites in there. This is seasonal Italian cooking at it's best. Everything was very fresh, well-thought-out, and expertly prepared by kitchen gods Vito and Todd. After tucking ourselves into the very warm and cozy dining room, we started out with a half bottle of Gratien Champagne, one of my favorite bottles of French fizz, and dug into their fantastic Fritto Misto and the Mascarpone Polenta with greens, garlic, and pine nuts. Following that up, paired with a bottle of '95 Barolo we brought with us (Note: a very reasonable $15 corkage fee here) was a very credible pasta Bolognese, but what rocked our palates was the Roasted Halibut on a bed of lentils finished in pancetta fat atop some seasonal squash. I never order halibut out, but luckily Kim has no such hangups because this was one of the best dishes of food I've tasted recently. The flavors were so savory and satisfying. Incredible! Unfortunately, I'm embarrassed to say, we were too full for dessert. But the sweet treats looked delicious, and you know I'll be delving into those delights in future visits, which are going to be many. At the end of dinner it received my highest verbal rating of "That was f--king fantastic!", which doesn't come out that often but in this instance said it all. There's a full bar and a well chosen wine list giving you plenty of options. This joint is now on my list of regular stops and I can't wait to go back!

Ciao Vito, 2203 NE Alberta, Phone 503.282-5522.


In Willamette Week I read with mouth agape at Roger Porter's review of Three Doors Down. I eat at 3DD with all too frequent regularity, and couldn't agree less with what his review said, as well as the ridiculous points he was trying to make. Now, 3DD has been here for years, and they do what they do and do it incredibly well and many other of my food-obsessed friends who know their stuff agree. Porter made many not-so-astute observations in his review. To wit: Talking about their boudin blanc appetizer, which he apparently loves, his complaint was that it was too much. Well, for someone who all too often goes out and spends $12 for a puny order of a couple undersized crab cakes or some other app creation, I'll take enough to share with the table any time. Then he complained about their lack of seasonality in their food and how their menu hasn't changed enough to suit him. Isn't it his job to judge a restaurant on what it does, and not on what it isn't? Especially when what they do is done so well? If you want a restaurant to do what you want, Roger, open your own place! He complains about the pork t-bone, that its stuffing of bleu cheese and chorizo is too heavy for August. Then, later on the article he states how it is his favorite main course entree! Huh? And instead of their always delicious mashed potatoes which accompany said pork and which 99.9% of us love, he suggests a "genuine, airy, pommes puree." Again Roger, open your own restaurant and you can have all the "pommes puree" you want. Again, his review should be about what the restaurant is, not what he wants it to be. I have read Porter's restaurant criticism in the past, and thought he was one of the better observers of our local food scene. But then I read something like this and find he's fallen to the level of mediocrity that plagues the food writing in this town.

3 Doors Down, 1429 SE 37th, Phone 503.236.6886 or check out their terrific website!


Back on the food trail, two places have definitely demonstrated their worthiness to be mentioned. One new, one a revisit. For those of you bemoaning the loss of Cafe Azul like I am, take heart and take your bellies over to Nuestra Cocina, which is providing further proof of the emergence of the eastside as the home of the best, most exciting dining in the city. This very comfortable, cool spot does wonders with regional Mexican cooking. The thing we loved about Azul was the complexity and layering of the flavors of their food. This place does it just as well, for about 30% less per plate. Everything I tasted there on a recent visit satisfied. Killer appetizers, awesome margaritas and beautifully prepared entrees. This is as good as it gets for "real" Mexican food in town, and you need to make time to get in.

Nuestra Cocina, 22nd and SE Division, Phone 503.232.2135.


And I paid another palate-pleasing visit to Alba Osteria. Chef/owner Kurt Spack once again proved his mastery of regional Piedmontese cooking. Everything he does that I've had here has been so far above the average it's amazing that PDX food-anistas aren't packing this room. His starters define what "appetizers" are all about, exciting your palate for the pleasures to come. His primi pastas are so filled with flavor but so wonderfully light as to almost float off the plate. The entrees to follow are superb, and nobody has a handle on sweetbreads like M. Spack. And for those of you who would wrinkle your noses at this under-appreciated meal, just try them...incredible! Get in to check this little piece of Italian heaven out. You won't be disappointed.

Alba Osteria, 6440 SW Capitol Highway, Phone 503.977.3045.


Vino Reading Room: If you're a member of the cult of foodies wandering the scene looking for that next tantalizing tidbit, then you have to grab a copy of Jacques Pepin's new book, "The Apprentice: My Life in the Kitchen." A great story, detailing his life from a being a young boy in France, learning to cook at his maman's elbow, to his training in the best kitchens in France and America, to his current role as Ambassador to all that tastes good. Really well written, with stories of fabulous meals plus recipes at the end of each chapter that will keep you salivating page after page. I loved it! Local angle: His daughter, Claudine, is the new manager of Portland's own Rivers Restaurant, which got a rave in the March issue of Food and Wine magazine.


Check out our Vino Recipes page for our latest passion, the Brazilian Caipirinha cocktail, as well as our favorite dish of the season, the terrific Lamb Shanks with Lentils. Or you could put our Fagioli all Uccelletto in the crockpot, and serve it with one of our featured Northwest reds.


Find us in Portland, Oregon, at 1226 SE Lexington St., Portland, OR 97202. Phone 503.235.8545 (toll free dial 1.888.922.8545) or simply e-mail vinobuys@qwest.net. Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 10:30am to 6pm (Friday 'til 7:30).